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new york-tokyo There's never enough time, or money, to do everything while on vacation, but I usually feel compelled to try. Anyone who has travelled with me knows I can get a little out of control...with research done well in advance, my list-making and itinerary-scheduling, complete with contingency plans. I can't bear the thought of returning home to find out that the coolest thing happened mere blocks from where I'd been. "Dude, didn't you know...for some reason Ted Leo and Neko Case were playing a free show at the Buffy convention, after the cast performed a live rendition of 'Once More, With Feeling'. Yeah, and Neil Gaiman was at the door handing out autographed Lomos to the first 100 people (he'll write a story to accompany the photos taken by the first person to mail their film back to him). After the bands, they screened footage from the upcoming Hellboy movie, followed by a complimentary vegan buffet, served up by Strictly Roots". That didn't happen, of course. Well, not that I heard about. But a lot of other fun stuff did. Friday: For me, flying is a necessary evil. I just want to get it over with and get there as soon as possible (like everyone else, I know, I know). But the security check on the way out delayed that. My belt and bra (damned underwires) set off the metal detector, so I wound up singled out to stand in the bullpen. When they finally got to me I was asked to remove my shoes. I was wearing flip-flops. And not even the platform kind. But I boarded in time. Naturally non-stop flights are preferred, but often prohibitively expensive. Thus I found myself with a layover in Chicago...waiting at a gate underneath a loudspeaker that was repeatedly announcing 'caution: the moving walkway is ending'. My first thought was 'are people really that stupid?' but then it came back to me in a hurry that yes, yes they are. Someone, somewhere probably stumbled and fell, due to their own inattentiveness, and managed to successfully sue over it. Freaking litigious Americans. Sigh. So I waited, with that constant reminder blaring, while eating a bowl of overpriced fruit with a taste and texture not unlike cardboard...thinking that the day could only get better. After a brief delay we boarded and headed to NYC, with bonus turbulence. Upon arrival I went in search of ground transportation. Booked myself on a super shuttle, knowing that a shared ride into Manhattan during Friday rush hour would take a little time...but not expecting it to take longer than the flight from Chicago. Days spent travelling to and from are often a complete loss, but I was determined to get something out of this one. Since the seven passengers were all staying in different parts of the city I was able to get some sightseeing in, and to compulsively check my map and notes some more. We drove past one of the little Korea areas, where I'd be dining later in the weekend. Then drove around Madison Square Gardens and through Times Square, where the Naked Cowboy was hamming it up. Eventually I was dropped off at Bowery's Whitehouse Hotel. I presented my ID when checking in, and the grouchy old guy at the desk smirked while saying "you're a long way from home, miss". Master of the obvious, that one. So my first priority was ditching my backpack...in my very own 6 foot by 4 foot luxury cell...then getting something to eat before heading to the New York-Tokyo Film Festival. Luckily everything was nearby. I walked just a few blocks over, past Toy Tokyo (was too famished to stop in), and into Angelica Kitchen. I scarfed down some yummy cornbread with a carrot-ginger spread, and a delicious anasazi bean stew...but I'd eaten so little all day that I quickly became full, and could only nibble at my Wee Dragon Bowl before running out the door. It was a fairly short hike over to the Tribeca Grand Hotel. I arrived at the tail end of the first session...and what I heard made me wish I'd gotten their earlier. It was an extra-special "Friday the 13th! J-Horror!" discussion with Anthony Timpone, editor-in-chief of Fangoria magazine...and a Japanese producer whose name I didn't catch (he wasn't listed on the flyer, doh). Japanese and American horror film genres were compared and contrasted...and the move towards more intellectual western horror films ('The Sixth Sense', 'Donnie Darko', '28 Days Later') was welcomed. Afterwards two wonderful and wildly different films were screened. The first, '2LDK', has been accurately called "the 'Apocalypse Now' of cat fights". I could have called it a night after that and been content...but I stuck around to watch 'Wild Zero' and I'm so glad I did. Even though it turns out I'm a big square...apparently many of my friends were already big fans of Japan's punkabilly kings, Guitar Wolf, who did a brilliant job co-starring in this film that has it all..."sexy gals, sexy guys, bucketloads of cool, guns, zombies, explosions, UFOs, and rock 'n' roll". At the end of the evening I headed back to the hostel feeling exhausted, but happy. Saturday: Sleeping was difficult in the cubicle, where the walls didn't reach the ceiling and my supermom hearing picked up on every little sound. But it was clean and safe, and the bed was comfortable. And, thankfully, it was only for one night. I loaded up my backpack and checked out that morning before heading for a stroll through the East Village. It was a lovely start to the day. It was sunny and warm, but not humid. And it was early enough in the day that there was little traffic. Well, for New York. There was much to take in, but my favorite place was somewhere I'd stopped by five years earlier. The Community Gardens at 6th Street and Avenue B. If I lived in the neighborhood I'd be taking the little man to their events all the time. They've got everything from finger puppet workshops to flamenco dancing. After photographing some of the sculptures it was time to meet a friend for brunch, at Kate's Joint. Now I knew I'd have fun with Shannon. But she is one of those rare Mary Tyler Moore-type individuals...she really can turn the world on with her smile. So we shared a good meal (I didn't make it back for lunch or dinner, next time) and conversation. Then we had a leisurely walk to the Tribeca where we parted ways. I went into the fest while she graciously took my backpack back to Brooklyn with her...with the plan for her to return at 11pm, to escort me back to her place. So I settled in for a day filled with more wonderful films. But after a few hours I had to take a break to eat. Missed one movie I would have liked to have seen, but it was worth it. I grabbed a quick bite at Vegetarian Paradise 2. I was so focused on my crispy soul chicken™ that it took me a while to notice who was sitting next to me. A guy I know from Minneapolis, who volunteers at Extreme Noise. He was just in town for a few days as well. He was visiting a woman who looked familiar...she used to live in Minneapolis, and hung out with some of the same folks. So we chatted, and commiserated over the sudden change in the weather. We'd walked in from blue skies, but exited into a downpour, flash flooding included. At that point I could have hailed a cab, or at least purchased an umbrella from a street vendor. But those with didn't look much more dry than those without. My bag is waterproof, and I was wearing a quick-dry cotton shirt with jeans, and comfortable shoes. Comfortable, yes. Do they have good traction? No. I found myself hydroplaning down West Broadway, in front of crowds of folks seated at sidewalk restaurants. Later I was telling Shannon about this who told me I should have shouted, 'hey, look at me, I'm Jesus!' (or 'Jeebus', depending on your preference). At any rate, I was soaked through by the time I got my sorry butt back to the Tribeca. Went to dry off in the ladies room, only to find out they didn't have hand dryers. So I let my hair drip-dry as I took off my shirt to wring it out in the sink. Underneath I was wearing a wet white wifebeater, over a black bra. I considered going back into the fest like that...after all, we would be in a dark theater...but there was another discussion session scheduled before the films began. Instead I sat in the chill air conditioning, damp and cold. But the movies took my mind off it. And the lack of movies. The festival organizers had been running into a few technical difficulties. I felt badly for them, but I was far too amused by the New Yorkers heckling them. There were some very funny folks in attendance. I got to chatting with a few of them. One seemed surprised that I was at the festival alone...and even more shocked when I said I'd flown out from Minneapolis for it. A little while later, though, I was being asked how Milwaukee is. In my experience residents of either the east or west coasts think the middle of the country is one big blur...when they think about it all. Anyhow, after the film finally started rolling we were treated to Hiroyuki Nakano's brilliant 'Samurai Fiction', which I have since purchased. Unfortunately by the time 'Electric Dragon 80,000V' (one of the main reasons I wanted to attend the fest) was showing I was far too tired and miserable to properly enjoy it. Nearly nodded off, like the woman next to me. Eventually the films were over for the evening (except for another screening of The Animatrix shorts, which I'd seen earlier in the day) and it was time to meet up with Shannon. Physically I wanted nothing more than a long, hot shower followed by hours of uninterrupted sleep. But Shannon had other ideas. It was her friend's birthday, so it was time to go out, in the city that never sleeps. We wound up at an Irish pub near one of the little India areas. I had fun despite the fatigue. And surprised myself by staying up until 4am. Sunday: Slept in and decided to skip the final day of the film fest. It was too gorgeous out, and I wanted to hang out with Shannon and company. We began the day with bagels, with vegan cream cheese, delivered right to her doorstep. Never mind that her roommate decided to walk to the bagel shop, and returned, bagels partially consumed, long before the delivery person showed up. I was far too tired to have made the journey at that time...and stoop sitting is highly underrated. After some lounging we made ready for an afternoon of...more lounging, in Central Park. There we met up with another friend of Shannon's. My relaxing was momentarily interrupted...by a panicked phone call from my stepmother. Apparently the home security system had gone off at my house and ADT called my folks. I quickly called home to discover J had been trying to reach me...but there is no cell phone service in the subway. He'd forgotten to disarm the alarm before opening the back door. Doh. So I gave him the password to give to ADT, but not before two police officers arrived on the scene. Good to know that it works, I guess. When that business was resolved I called my folks back...wished my Dad a Happy Father's Day and got back to some serious lounging. The afternoon flew by, and before long it was time to get back on the subway and part ways. I'd planned to take Shannon to an all-vegan Korean restaurant called Hangawi. But not before stopping by a vegan-friendly show store I'd made note of. I had an inkling I wouldn't be walking out empty-handed...but didn't think I'd pick up three pairs of shoes. Oops. Including baby blue and yellow Pumas. By this point we were famished, and our trip to Hangawi was long overdue. I had an idea of what to expect...but my expectations were blown out of the water. I know I won't be able to do the experience justice, but I'll try anyway. Shannon and I became giddy just upon entering this amazing restaurant. It was like walking into a zen bubble. We ordered the emperor's meal, the best way to sample multiple items from their menu. We were hooked after the first course. Tray after tray of delectable delights arrived, with perfect timing. Each in beautiful and unique earthenware, often with intricate garnishes...carrots carved into lobsters, butterflies carved out of radishes, beautiful flower blossoms carved from beets. Nearly too lovely to eat. As the meal progressed we found permanent smiles plastered on our faces. And when it was finally time to leave, we departed feeling blissed out...with vows to return. After that I didn't need anything else from NYC. Though it was the last night of my trip, I was content to head back to Brooklyn...for a good night's sleep. Monday: I woke up with plenty of time to spare, double-checking and repacking my bags before showering. Then my hostess with the mostest served up some breakfast and tea. We chatted while waiting for the car (much, much better than the super shuttle) that would be whisking me away to the airport. I informed her that this time I was going beltless and bra-less. We giggled, then I added 'because nothing's holding me back' (and it worked, I made it through security in record time). The car arrived all too soon, and it was time for goodbye hugs. A lovely end to a wonderful weekend. She'll be visiting Minneapolis before too long, so it's all good. And I plan to return to NYC in the fall if possible, for her birthday. So there you have it. The long and short of my New York stories. Mostly the long of it. :: posted 1:22pm 06/24/03 |
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